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Origin Story

Costa Rican Coffee: The Microlot Revolution and the Honey Process That Changed Everything

The mountains of Costa Rica don't announce themselves. They rise gradually from the Caribbean lowlands, then fold sharply into the Cordillera de Talamanca, the spine of the country, where the air...

By Eric Bakken

costa-rica tarrazu honey-process microlot washed caturra

The Soil First

The mountains of Costa Rica don’t announce themselves. They rise gradually from the Caribbean lowlands, then fold sharply into the Cordillera de Talamanca, the spine of the country, where the air thins and the clouds gather. It’s a place of volcanic memory — old eruptions, cooled lava flows, and soils that have had centuries to leach and recombine. In the highlands, the earth is dark and crumbly, rich in organic matter but also in iron and magnesium, elements that give the coffee grown here its characteristic brightness.

The soil in Costa Rica is not the same as the soil in Colombia or Guatemala. It’s more mineral, more structured, and it holds water differently. In Tarrazú, the soil is volcanic, with a high content of pumice and ash, which gives the coffee a clean, bright acidity. In the West Valley, the soil is more alluvial, with a higher clay content, which gives the coffee a heavier body and a chocolatey sweetness.

“The soil is the first teacher. You don’t fight it. You listen to it.” — Juan Carlos Mora, coffee farmer, Tarrazú

How Coffee Got Here

Coffee came to Costa Rica in 1779, brought by a Jesuit priest from Cuba. By the early 1800s, coffee was being grown in the highlands, and by the mid-1800s, it was the country’s main export. The 1949 law that banned the planting of low-grade arabica varieties was a turning point — a law that said Costa Rica would not compete on quantity, but on quality. The law was a bet, and Costa Rica won.

The Growing Regions

The most famous region is Tarrazú, in the province of San José, where the altitude ranges from 1,200 to 1,900 meters. The coffee here is clean, bright, and structured, with a citrusy acidity and a medium body — the gold standard of Costa Rican coffee. The West Valley, which includes Naranjo, Palmares, and San Ramón, is the most decorated region in the Cup of Excellence, with altitudes from 1,000 to 1,600 meters producing balanced, sweet, and chocolatey coffees. The Central Valley, the oldest coffee region, produces approachable coffees with mild acidity and nutty sweetness.

Other regions — Tres Ríos (disappearing to urban sprawl), Brunca (bold, spicy), Turrialba (wet and mild), and Orosí (bright, Pacific slope) — complete a landscape of extraordinary diversity within a small country.

The Honey Process Innovation

Costa Rica is also the home of the honey process, a method that was invented here in the 1990s. In the honey process, the cherry is pulped, but the mucilage is left on the bean, and the bean is dried with the mucilage still attached. The result is a coffee that is sweeter, heavier, and more complex than a washed coffee, but not as heavy or as fruity as a natural coffee.

“The honey process is a way of finding the middle ground. It’s not too clean, and it’s not too wild.” — Ana María Solís, coffee processor, Tarrazú

In the Cup

The coffee from Costa Rica is not loud. It is not flashy, and it is not exotic. It is clean, bright, medium-bodied, and consistent. The concept of the microlot — processing coffee from individual sections of a farm separately — is a Costa Rican innovation, a way of highlighting the unique character of each farm.

“Costa Rica didn’t just produce quality coffee — it invented the concept of producing coffee for quality.” — Eric Bakken, Contour Coffee